Project Vehicles


Installing a ZEX™ Perimeter Plate Nitrous System

SPECS 1962 Chevrolet Nova Sport Coupe

406 Small Block Chevrolet
Scat rotating Assembly,
Keith Black Pistons
Dart Pro 1 Aluminum heads
COMP Cams™ valve train including
Xtreme Energy™ XE284H-10
COMP Cams™ Pro Magnum™ Rockers
COMP Cams™ Hi-Tech™ Pushrods
Edelbrock AirGap RPM intake Manifold
Mighty Demon 750 carburetor
Barry Grant Mighty Enduro Fuel Supply system
Pertronix ignition
3” Mandrel bent Exhaust with exits behind the axle
ZEX™ 4-BBL Plate Nitrous System (part # 82040) set at 100hp
Optional purge system (part # 82010)

B&M Turbo 350 Transmission
3000 stall converter
B&M Pro Ratchet Shifter
Ford 9”, Auburn Posi
3.70 Gear set by Richmond Gear.

Competition Engineering Ladder Bar rear
Strut style front suspension
Eibach ERS coil-overs at all four corners.
NASCAR style 3 piece front sway bar.
Weld Rodlite wheels
Goodyear Eagle GT's.

UPS finally showed up with my newly ordered ZEX™ Perimeter Plate Nitrous System™ the other day. I pulled everything out of the box and compared what I received to the parts list on page two of the instruction. I am not a big fan of instructions and tend to do better with pictures. Much to my pleasure there is also a nice photo of what comes in the box, right on the cover. I also figure with my new motor at risk I had better do things right the first time.

Funny enough I read the entire instructions, cover to cover, before I started the project. I am so ashamed.

Selecting the placement of the hard parts was the first task. The injector plate was the easiest part of the kit. Simply take the carb off, replace the studs and bolt it back together. The plate does have a top and bottom but if you can read the logos on the sides, you done good. (see photo 1) I placed the nitrous port on the front because I figured it was harder to see nitrous leaks then fuel. My carburetor studs had not been in for long so double-nutting them did the trick. I would also recommend thread locker on the manifold side of the new ones. The solenoids need to be in a position where the pre-made braided lines would reach the plate ports. Eldelbrock was kind enough to place threaded bosses in unique places around the top of the manifold. (see photo 2) I found two that were pretty close and started massaging the brackets. As you can see by (see photo 3) , I removed one hole and made a slight “S” bend for line clearance. This kit uses different holes in the same style bracket for solenoids, and throttle trigger. Each had to be cut/bent for each location. I am using cable style throttle linkage and the linear movement of the cable seemed to be the easiest to use for the full throttle trigger. (see photo 4) The cable clamp that impacts the switch is readily available at your local RC Hobby store. Have a buddy push the pedal to the floor and tighten the cable clamp at proper placement.

I placed the bottle in the trunk mostly because I intend to drive this car on the street and the local law enforcement frowns on power adders. No sense of humor..... Make sure you place the bottle like the instructions say, valve forward etc. (see photo 5) . The purge solenoid was most at home under the dash (see photo 6) where I had a straight shot at the vents behind the hood for the purge port. (see photo 7) I decided to put the switches on the aluminum housing covering the shifter. (see Photo 8) I also added a safety cover for the arming switch due to its close proximity to other “stuff”. (see photo 9) The wiring was quite simple. Do not cut corners! Use the relays and no one will get hurt. Next came the plumbing. There is really not much to it. Be careful when routing the lines not to kink them or get them too close to heat or electrical, yep they are conductive! Lastly, turn the bottle on and check for leaks. Once the system has been inspected and checks out, the system is ready to rock. 100 extra horsepower never seemed so easy.